Design A Sweater, Lesson 2: Planning the Hems and Casting On!
by NinaKnit Picks Designers , Sweater Class , Tutorials Add comments
Hello, everyone! This week in the Design a Sweater Class, we'll be discussing hem treatments, calculating your cast-on, and begin knitting our sweaters! This is a fun step for me becuase I really feel like my project is underway now! Here's the ribbing pattern I chose for my hem:
I also realized that I have not yet shared the sketch for my own design with you, so today I took a hasty picture:
As you can see even this vague sketch gives me some good information about how deep I want my hem to be, so if you haven't yet, you might want to do a sketch of your own to solidify your design ideas! Of course, you may also notice that I changed my hem pattern between when I did the sketch and when I started knitting, so don't worry, you are not married to any sketch that you do :) Feel free to link to your sketches in the comments so that we can post feedback!
In the video and handout this week, I'll be discussing various hem treatments, and walking you through how to calculate the number of stitches to cast on. And then, hopefully you will cast on!
Don't you just love when the captured frame on the video gives you frog face?!?
You can view and print the pdf here:
Ask any questions you have in the comments, or just share your ideas for hem with the rest of the class! Hopefully we can get a good knowledge base going there that will be useful for future students as well! Our class has a tag now, so you can always access our whole archive on one page right here:
Happy knitting! Tune in again next week when we'll discuss how to shape the torso to get the fit you've always wanted from a sweater!
Mar 8, 2011 at 3:30 PM Dear Nina, I am from Germany trying to knit my first sweater and I have a question about the needles you are using. Are you using a round needle (that's how it's called in Germany), which is two needles connected by a string with which you can knit straight pieces or a needle-play, which is four needles and an additional needle to knit circular pieces like socks or gloves? I planned on knitting with a round needle, and to knit a front piece and a back piece and then sew it together. Do you think this is possible? Thanks for your help!
Jul 27, 2010 at 10:12 AM Thanks Nna. That helps a lot. I'm off to see to doing it.
Jul 27, 2010 at 8:15 AM Hi Marty! You have a few choices for working a hem. Choice one is to just cast on and begin knitting. Work plain for the length that you want the hem to be and then work one more row plain before beginning the lace panel. Everything you have just knit will show up on the right side of your sweater. Later, when the piece is done, you'll pick up sts from the cast-on edge with a smaller needle, and work th inside of the hem. When you have knit the inner facing, you'll baste the live sts down to the back of the RS of the piece. Does that make sense? Another option is to do a provisional cast on, and then with smaller needles, work the inside of the hem first. when it is the length you want, work a purl row, switch to the needles you will use for the rest of the piece, and knit the same number of rows for the RS. When you have finished these rows, you amy undo he provisional cast on and knit the live sts together with the sts on your needle, one by one. This method is a little fiddly but it is efficient, gives a very clean join, and requires no sewing! Hope this helps--thanks for reminding me about it! I want to include more info on hems in this week's finishing lesson!
Jul 26, 2010 at 8:06 PM I have finally decided what I want to knit with my Alpaca yarn: a sleeveless pullover with a lace panel up the center front and back. I want a turned hem on it instead of ribbing. Do I just start with say an inch of stockinette, and then start the pattern, and do the inside of the hem later??
Jul 2, 2010 at 12:01 PM Yes, if you click the purple link in the post that says "Lesson 2" then your browser will display the pdf file. There is a little button with a printer that allows you to print, or you may just choose "print" from the file menu. Hope this helps!
Jul 1, 2010 at 10:43 PM Is there a handout for this lesson that I can print?
Jun 28, 2010 at 3:39 PM Tara, I know exactly how that feels. If you get any extra hours out of the time fairy, I trust you will share your methods with me because I could use a few extra hours right about now!
Jun 28, 2010 at 3:36 PM Nina Now that ive got the laptop online am TrYing to Play catch Up with This class Hoping in a day or 2 i really Will be caught Up Printed Up and on the Needles lol gosh what a Time ive had getting WiFi to work out here !!! Ive read Every Week GREAT Class .. as I expected Youre Just doing such an Awesome Job :)) was WHY I Didnt want to Miss it..Pc Challenged & All thats What I get for Impulse Buying a Laptop lol lol Maybe the TIME Fairy really Will give Me a 50 Hour Day !! Yeah right lol few more Sleepless Nights I should be Good to Go !!
Jun 28, 2010 at 8:23 AM Yay! That sounds like it will be really cute, Becky! I'm hoping to organize a little show-and-tell for next week, so be on the lookout for my call for photos if you want to share yours!
Jun 27, 2010 at 10:57 AM I had to take a break from this to whip up a quick BSJ for a friends baby shower. Now I'm back to this. Just have to finish up some swatching by washing it and I'll be on my way to what you covered here. I'm using yarn in my stash and I think I might attempt a little color work of hearts or something in the yoke area. I'll try to post a pic link once the swatching is done. The colors are a tan with a peach.
Jun 21, 2010 at 1:07 PM Nine, Dear, you are preaching to the choir! It boggles my mind, too. I can think of several instances where a gauge might not be an absolute must... but if this item is suppose to fit... well, I think it is an absolute must. As with anything worth doing... it's worth doing right. And a little planning (swatching), makes for a much better finished garment.
Jun 21, 2010 at 1:03 PM Susan, that just amazes me! I suppose for a garter-stitch scarf or a plain afghan I wouldn't be too worried about gauge, but even if the finished size isn't terribly important, how is one supposed to know one has enough yarn without testing gauge?!?! It boggles the mind. I would be so terribly disappointed to knit an entire garment, run out of yarn, scramble to match dyelots when buying more,and then finish the project just to find that it is many sizes away from fitting me! And all that trouble and more could be saved by knitting just one measly square!
Jun 21, 2010 at 12:53 PM Nina, I have picked up so many patterns lately that say: "Gauge: Don't worry about this! Just start knitting." A lot of people just take the recommended yarn and needle size and start knitting... they were never taught about gauge. But we all know that if you are making a garment that is suppose to fit, the gauge is critical. Thanks for reinforcing this truth.
Jun 21, 2010 at 12:36 PM Tami, welcome aboard! I'm following the comments on all of the blog posts so don't worry about getting a later start.
Jun 21, 2010 at 12:35 PM Robin, I just finished writing up the notes for the next lesson and I promise there will be plenty to keep you busy this week!
Jun 21, 2010 at 10:11 AM Just found the link for the class today! The videos and notes are awesome and I cannot wait to get started working on this! I look forward to having a sweater that fits! :)
Jun 21, 2010 at 9:59 AM Thank you for your response, Nina! I'm being patient, but it is nice to know you didn't want to stop on yours either. =)
Jun 21, 2010 at 9:13 AM Ok, one more thing: diane-- Reading that you enjoyed your first swatching experience just filled me with weird teacher-ly pride!
Jun 21, 2010 at 8:52 AM Everyone I didn't get a chance to respond to individually--thank you for sharing your experiences and information here! I am also really excited to move on to the next section. I try to stay one lesson ahead of the class, but this weekend as I was working on my sweater, I didn't want to stop, either!
Jun 21, 2010 at 8:33 AM Robin--the only thing it will do is affect the abruptness of the waist shaping in your sweater. If you want a very fitted torso, then you should stop now and wait for the shaping tutorial, since that will give you the information you need too shape the sweater to your measurements. So if there is a lot of shaping to do between the hips and the waist, then you'll want to wait. If you want a straight torso without shaping, or don't intend to do that much shaping in the lower body, then knit on!
Jun 21, 2010 at 8:29 AM Katha, I hope that it is not an allergy but just in case, I can send you my measurements, I'll be happy to take the finished sweater off your hands ;) Seriously though--I don't know much about allergies but they can be caused by fibers, dyes, dust... lots of things. This might explain why Diane had a reaction to one yarn and not the other. I would not recommend continuing work on the project if it becomes really uncomfortable, but if YOU feel ok with it then your plan to finish and then decide who gets it sounds like a good one.
Jun 21, 2010 at 8:21 AM Thanks so much for doing this tutorial...I am just starting a sweater but I don't really like the non-shaping pattern they have through the torso. I am just going to start a basic sweater pattern from this video and put the finishing touches on it from the pattern. Thanks again for the step by step stuff. I had NEVER made a gauge swatch before. So COOL!
Jun 20, 2010 at 6:58 PM I must have been asleep at the computer when you started this sweater design class. I found it today and will try to catch up. The videos are super and the hand outs will make it so much easier. You have done a super job with all of it so far. I celebrated the last day of KIP by going to Borders and knit on the sweater I'm making for my husband. You are right, men's sweaters take soooo long. We live in the south so I'm using Comfy worsted which will give him warmth without burning up as wool blends are wont to do. Thanks for your excellent job with this. ? E.
Jun 20, 2010 at 6:55 AM A fellow knitter and I met up for our cuppa at the local Borders--and knit in public--finished up my bottom ribbing and am eager for our next lesson!! Thanks Nina!!
Jun 19, 2010 at 1:37 PM Thanks for the advice. I had problems with all baby clothes being to short in the legs it will be great for Hayden to have her grand ma make her pants long enough to cover her little ankles. I swatched and swatched washed and dried knitted and ripped out twice and unless the baby is born way early I am ripping again. My fabric is very stretchy so I am going for a circular pattern along with the class. It will be cute and I am sure my daughter who is supper fussy will love it.
Jun 19, 2010 at 1:28 PM Nina, I've become OBSESSED with knitting my new sweater! I'm making mine a cardigan & have followed the directions for marking the side seams and center back, like you instructed Victoria, above. Would it hurt anything for me to go ahead and stockinette stitch a little further up, closer to the waist shaping area, at this point??? I don't want to mess anything up that you will be instructing us on in the next video, but I sure am EXCITED to move on with this...I'm LOVING the way it's looking so far too! If you do think it's ok to move forward, at what point should I STOP and wait???
Jun 19, 2010 at 11:59 AM Hi Kathy. The same thing happened to me using 100% alpaca purchased from my local yarn store. I am now using Andean Silk from the Yvette Entrelac kit and experiencing no problems at all. Could our problem stem from a certain type of alpaca? hmmmmmm.
Jun 18, 2010 at 10:19 PM My Andean Treasure arrived day before yesterday and I was so thrilled! I started swatching right away....two days later, I'm afraid I may be allergic to the alpaca! Itchy eyes, junk in my throat, slight wheezing....oh no! I'm trying to convince myself that it is just the usual allergy season attacking me, not my lovely new yarn. Allergy meds in tow....I push on! I suppose if I make it through the sweater and then find I can't wear it, I will find someone else? I suppose also if it gets any worse, I will switch to stash of Rowan Calmer. I'm still pulling for the Alpaca tho!
Jun 18, 2010 at 12:55 PM Hi Iryna! I can give pointers for short row darts but don't have a TON of expertise. I can definitely cover where to start, though, and how far you go will depend on the overall extra length that you'll need in the front. I'll do my best and hopefully we can work out anything I miss in the ensuing discussion! Thanks for the suggestion! Victoria, I've noticed that some of Debbie Bliss' baby sizing tends to run wide--when I knit her kid's patterns I like to add an inch or two extra to the length to even it out. Just a heads-up! Cellogirl, Sounds like you are off ot a great start! I'll be covering neckline shaping when we do the yoke--v-necks are so popular that I think I'll have to include then, even though crew- and square necks are the easiest! Tara, this sounds like it's going to be a great experience broadening your comfort zone! Patterns worked in the round are just as easy to control or modify as those worked flat--you jut use markers to note the seams and then make all the same adjustments you would otherwise! I am addicted to row counters as well, though--I've probably bought dozes over the years. They are indispensable for waist and sleeve shaping!
Jun 18, 2010 at 11:34 AM Hi Nina! Thank you for the next step on sweater making. I was hoping in the "Body" section you could cover how to sahpe a sweater for a full chected ladies. I am one of them :o)))) I know that by using short-rowing I can achive dart-type shaping. But... where to start and how far to go?! Please, would you consider this one? Thank you!
Jun 18, 2010 at 10:22 AM Thanks Nina for another great lesson!! Think I'll play it straight and do the sweater for GS's Christmas--It's the last one for my presents this year--my only deviation will be a V neck and a cable running down the middle of the sleeves. Otherwise, it's easy-peasy!! I'm finishing off my latest Tomten in lace cable or Germaine st. and I'm ready for straight!! Thanks again for a great class!!
Jun 18, 2010 at 3:38 AM Thank you. I love to knit so doing it in the round sounded great but I know your right so I'll knit and purl I may even knit backwards I find it a challenge but my stitches are more even when I do that. I have Debbie bliss Essential baby I will use classic cardigan as a guide for size. hope she stays a girl lol Several months ago I had a dream she was a girl the Dr. took her out of my daughters side and we played with her and kissed he a lot. The parents called her Daily. I just hope I see her Daily.
Jun 17, 2010 at 9:54 PM Nina .. Yes indeedy My Son til a Year ago was a Stick Figure .. So Alot more to Knit Now but I've Never Knit a Sweater in the Round .. Not for AnyOne Including the Toddlers so I'm not Sure I'll Like it .. I've always Done Front/Back and 2 Sleeves but When You Accutrately Count Rows (with a Needle Counter) then Everythings ALWAYS a Perfect Match !! Some How in the Round I Dont FeeL like I Have as Much Pattern Control .. Even though I'd Often Make the Backs AloT Plainer or Different then the Front Designs .. Love love My Bulky Wools & Large Needles for My Pullovers .. as Traditionally we Wore them for Ski Wear .. Bulky Pullovers & Bulky Mittens & Hats.. Our Every Weekend Winter Activity (when My Son was Growing Up was Skiing) Often at Work Both Color & Design Ideas would Pop Into My head .. Before I'd go to All the Work & Find I Hated it .. I'd Make a Sample of it in either Cabbage Patch or Teddy Bear Size .. That way If I Loved it I CO ..If I Hated it usually a Neighborhood Child got the Tiny Sweater :)))
Jun 17, 2010 at 9:18 PM Well, I'd consider that a happy accident, Victoria! I think it is possible to steek cotton if you use a sewing machine to re-inforce your steek, but I would be personally nervous to try that. If you want a cardigan, though, you can still use this patter. Here's what I wrote to another student today: "it is easy to convert into a cardigan--just make sure your cast-on number is divisible by 4, then work the torso flat instead of in the round. When it is time to mark the side seams (which we'll be doing in lesson 3), divide the number of stitches by 4, and place your markers after the first quarter and last quarter of stitches. " Then you'll work exactly as we do up to the armpits, and use those markers as your side markers. I think it will be quite simple! Let us know what you try!
Jun 17, 2010 at 8:43 PM Nina, My grand son turned into a Grand daughter she is a bouncy baby and they did not get a great look the first time around but now we are sure. I could not be happier I had bought a lot of girly colors at a big sale and since I had no money for yarn it is great she is defiantly a girl. I will start with from the beginning and catch up. My yarn is 100% cotton can it be steeked ? I was hoping I could do a button up do to the lack of stretch in cotton. Thank you so much I love learning this way Victoria ps now I just have to make MR foster a carman I am just 2" above the legs so far. lol she is going to the delivery room as a Dr. so good thing she started out as Mr. foster.
Jun 17, 2010 at 6:19 PM Hi Tanu! The schematic I'm referring to is the one from the Lesson One Handout, on Page 3. You should be able to view it here: http://www.knitpicks.com/cfBlog/assets/content//Nina/Sweater%20Class/Lesson%201%20swatching%20and%20measuring.pdf let me know if it's not showing up and I'll see what I can do!
Jun 17, 2010 at 3:12 PM Hi Nina, I just watched the part 1 and 2 videos of your tutorial. very interesting and clear instruction. I looked through the PDF's on the two blog posts but i do not see the schematic or the worksheet with the fill-in-the-blanks-math. where do i download this? thanks!
Jun 17, 2010 at 1:19 PM Sara--I'm glad to know that the combination of videos and handouts is helpful to you! I personally learn much better from paper, so I really wanted that to be a component of this course. I also really like to print out class materials and store them in binders--that way I can do my studying away from teh computer! But I know lots of people are visual and aural learners, so I felt the video would be a nice component--and it lets everyone "see" m which I hope adds a bit of the "human" touch! Kate, I think your sweater will be lovely in Tidepool Heather! I like seed stitch for hems too--it doesn't pull in like ribbing does and can make a really attractive straight silhouette with the body of the sweater. Let us know how it goes! Susan, Thank you for your kind comment! Tara, I have to do a "father" sweater too---for my father! Unfortunately his birthday is next week so I think his sweater will be a winter present as well! I find men's sweaters to be pretty easy as far as shaping goes--it's just that they tend to be pretty big which takes soooo long!!! Robin, I am really looking forward to hearing about your experience with this project. I hope that you'll find that garments are nothing that you need to be intimidated by! Happy Knitting, everyone!
Jun 17, 2010 at 9:44 AM I'm about to cast on for my sweater & wanted to say a BIG THANK YOU, NINA...I'm relatively new to knitting, but regardless of how this project may turn out for me in the long run, I have already learned SO MUCH from your lessons & am so very grateful for the opportunity to learn from you. Yes, I'm TIRED of following other people's patterns exclusively & am so very excited to know I have more options now, because you've helped me to understand the process. Thank you again & Happy Knitting! =)
Jun 16, 2010 at 11:49 PM Well Nina .. Since Last December I've been talking about Wanting to Do Father & Son Sweaters for My Son and his 3 boys (2 of them Toddlers) while I'm Momentarily Swamped This Class is Forcing Me to do the Father Sweater (which Is the Toughest of the Bunch) for That I'm Very Grateful !! Many ThankS .. I actually See the Father & Son Sweaters Done before Christmas !!!
Jun 16, 2010 at 9:06 PM Nina, Thank you ao much for the third installment... we really appreciate all that KP does for us. ?s
Jun 16, 2010 at 7:45 PM Can I just say that Knit Picks' delivery turn around rocks! After picking which of my swatches I loved the best (Wool of the Andes Worsted in Tidalpool Heather) I placed my order on Saturday fully expecting to sit on the side lines for at least a day on this lesson. But what was waiting on my door step this afternoon? My yarn! Woo! Hoo! I love you guys. So after trying out a few different stitches I am about cast on and get going on my hem. Since it seems that all my sweaters have ribbed hems and cuffs I thought I'd go with a seed stitch to make this one a little different. Well I'm off to double check my math and get going.
Jun 16, 2010 at 5:18 PM Yay we're finally starting on our sweaters!! Nina I just wanted to tell you that I love it that you are doing both a video and PDF for these lessons. I know it helps me out a lot to picture the video when reading the PDF and vice versa.